The consumer’s guide to carpet
What to know before buying carpet
Wall-to-wall carpet is, in most cases, the single most expensive item bought for a home. Not only because of the expense, but because how new carpet is able to completely change the look and feel of a home, it is important to properly research the choices. The number one factor that we use to make a carpet selection is color. The proper color can set a mood, define a style or work with the existing interior. But a color selection should also be practical as well as aesthetic. While white or light-colored carpet is elegant, it isn’t practical in areas where children play or pets are allowed to roam. Dark colors can show everyday dry soil, lint and pet hair. It’s a good idea to know what is the color of the outside soil that can be tracked in. In Arizona, that color leans toward red, so that a color with any hint of red will be best at hiding soil.
Carpet construction is the second most important decision. This includes the styles of carpet (ex: loop, cut, cut and loop), how dense it is and how well made it is. From the practical standpoint, a loop pile carpet will wear better and clean up easier than a cut pile. But a loop pile won’t be as luxurious, will show the seams more than a cut pile and can suffer from snags by pets, children’s toys, furniture or even the worn edge of a vacuum cleaner. Cut and loop patterns offer much of the best of both choices. Also a good choice is the classic “frieze” (free-zay) style where cut pile yarn is twisted so tight that it curls over. With a frieze, foot traffic comes in contact with the stronger, curved edge of the yarn, rather than the tips.
Most carpets are “tufted”, meaning that the fibers are sewn into the carpet backing and held in place with a hardened latex or urethane. Some higher-end carpets are woven, on a loom. These can be the classic Wilton or Axminster weaves, power-loom variations or knitted. Generally, a woven carpet will out-perform a tufted carpet. Then there’s a more specialized category of carpets and rugs; hand-woven, hand-tufted or hand-knotted.
The choice of carpet fiber is an important decision. Wool is the “gold standard” by which all man-made fibers are judged. The characteristics of wool are low luster, low static, soil-resistance, soil-hiding and an ability to recover from long-term crushing. It can be said that wool carpet “wears with an elegance”. It hides its age until that final moment when it just wears out, But synthetic fiber carpets tend to “ugly out” long before they wear out.
With all that it is has going for it, what keeps wool from being the preferred choice for carpet? Answer: liquid spills. Wool wants to absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture and is like a dry sponge when a drink is spilled on it. That’s where the synthetic fibers like nylon, polypropylene (olefin), polyester and acrylic perform their best; in their ability to resist liquid stains. Of these four, nylon is by far the most popular and versatile. Polypropylene and polyester are used mostly to keep the cost down but they do not perform as well as nylon. Acrylic is a synthetic fiber that looks the most like wool but it has a softness that encourages crushing and it won’t repel stains as well as the other synthetics.
Just like with any other purchase, when you buy carpet you get what you pay for. An inexpensive carpet will only look good for a short while and, with the cost of installation labor, it’s better to purchase something that will look good much longer. The categories of “good”, “better” and “best” definitely apply to carpet selections. There is one category, though, that does not relate to wearability, cleanability or performance. That category is what we would call “boutique”. Carpet in this category offers a special look or feel (Flokati rug, silk fiber, deep shag, big loop berber) but the higher price does not promise good wear and usually requires extra care.
Many synthetic fiber carpets come with added features such as treatments for soil-resistance, stain-resistance and odor protection, extra-soft yarn or even wider widths for fewer seams in large rooms. Wool carpet stands on its own merits and rarely comes with any extra features.
A word of caution: some soft yarn, nylon carpets and some wool or wool-blend carpets have warning labels on their samples stating that “beater bar” type vacuums are not good for those carpets. Certain of the newer, high-suction vacuums are also considered by many carpet mills to be too destructive to use with their carpet.
One thing is for sure, you can’t go wrong by seeking carpet advice from a professional designer.
Wall-to-wall carpet is, in most cases, the single most expensive item bought for a home. Not only because of the expense, but because how new carpet is able to completely change the look and feel of a home, it is important to properly research the choices. The number one factor that we use to make a carpet selection is color. The proper color can set a mood, define a style or work with the existing interior. But a color selection should also be practical as well as aesthetic. While white or light-colored carpet is elegant, it isn’t practical in areas where children play or pets are allowed to roam. Dark colors can show everyday dry soil, lint and pet hair. It’s a good idea to know what is the color of the outside soil that can be tracked in. In Arizona, that color leans toward red, so that a color with any hint of red will be best at hiding soil.
Carpet construction is the second most important decision. This includes the styles of carpet (ex: loop, cut, cut and loop), how dense it is and how well made it is. From the practical standpoint, a loop pile carpet will wear better and clean up easier than a cut pile. But a loop pile won’t be as luxurious, will show the seams more than a cut pile and can suffer from snags by pets, children’s toys, furniture or even the worn edge of a vacuum cleaner. Cut and loop patterns offer much of the best of both choices. Also a good choice is the classic “frieze” (free-zay) style where cut pile yarn is twisted so tight that it curls over. With a frieze, foot traffic comes in contact with the stronger, curved edge of the yarn, rather than the tips.
Most carpets are “tufted”, meaning that the fibers are sewn into the carpet backing and held in place with a hardened latex or urethane. Some higher-end carpets are woven, on a loom. These can be the classic Wilton or Axminster weaves, power-loom variations or knitted. Generally, a woven carpet will out-perform a tufted carpet. Then there’s a more specialized category of carpets and rugs; hand-woven, hand-tufted or hand-knotted.
The choice of carpet fiber is an important decision. Wool is the “gold standard” by which all man-made fibers are judged. The characteristics of wool are low luster, low static, soil-resistance, soil-hiding and an ability to recover from long-term crushing. It can be said that wool carpet “wears with an elegance”. It hides its age until that final moment when it just wears out, But synthetic fiber carpets tend to “ugly out” long before they wear out.
With all that it is has going for it, what keeps wool from being the preferred choice for carpet? Answer: liquid spills. Wool wants to absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture and is like a dry sponge when a drink is spilled on it. That’s where the synthetic fibers like nylon, polypropylene (olefin), polyester and acrylic perform their best; in their ability to resist liquid stains. Of these four, nylon is by far the most popular and versatile. Polypropylene and polyester are used mostly to keep the cost down but they do not perform as well as nylon. Acrylic is a synthetic fiber that looks the most like wool but it has a softness that encourages crushing and it won’t repel stains as well as the other synthetics.
Just like with any other purchase, when you buy carpet you get what you pay for. An inexpensive carpet will only look good for a short while and, with the cost of installation labor, it’s better to purchase something that will look good much longer. The categories of “good”, “better” and “best” definitely apply to carpet selections. There is one category, though, that does not relate to wearability, cleanability or performance. That category is what we would call “boutique”. Carpet in this category offers a special look or feel (Flokati rug, silk fiber, deep shag, big loop berber) but the higher price does not promise good wear and usually requires extra care.
Many synthetic fiber carpets come with added features such as treatments for soil-resistance, stain-resistance and odor protection, extra-soft yarn or even wider widths for fewer seams in large rooms. Wool carpet stands on its own merits and rarely comes with any extra features.
A word of caution: some soft yarn, nylon carpets and some wool or wool-blend carpets have warning labels on their samples stating that “beater bar” type vacuums are not good for those carpets. Certain of the newer, high-suction vacuums are also considered by many carpet mills to be too destructive to use with their carpet.
One thing is for sure, you can’t go wrong by seeking carpet advice from a professional designer.
Carpet Cushion
A good carpet cushion, also known as padding or underlayment, will absorb the impact of foot traffic, reduce noise and make carpet easier to clean by vacuuming. Cushion that is too thick, or too soft, can be fatiguing to walk on and can allow the carpet to wrinkle. A dense, rubber cushion will maintain its resilience much longer than any other choice. This can be a waffle texture or flat surface. Next best is “rebond” cushion (the ones with the chucks) since the chunks offer support beyond what the plain “urethane” cushion can offer. These chunks, however, are of varying densities and can be clumped together or greatly separated, causing hard or soft spots that are felt through the carpet. Then there’s a fiber cushion (formerly horse hair & jute—now a mix of reclaimed synthetic and natural fibers). This cushion will get denser and harder in the traffic lanes. The worst cushion choice is called “prime urethane”, which cannot be made with enough density to keep foot traffic from bottoming out. A version of this is “densified” urethane, which offers a higher density but can eventually flatten or break down under long-term traffic.
Carpet cushion is essential to the comfort and long life of any carpet and almost any cushion selection is better than none at all.
A good carpet cushion, also known as padding or underlayment, will absorb the impact of foot traffic, reduce noise and make carpet easier to clean by vacuuming. Cushion that is too thick, or too soft, can be fatiguing to walk on and can allow the carpet to wrinkle. A dense, rubber cushion will maintain its resilience much longer than any other choice. This can be a waffle texture or flat surface. Next best is “rebond” cushion (the ones with the chucks) since the chunks offer support beyond what the plain “urethane” cushion can offer. These chunks, however, are of varying densities and can be clumped together or greatly separated, causing hard or soft spots that are felt through the carpet. Then there’s a fiber cushion (formerly horse hair & jute—now a mix of reclaimed synthetic and natural fibers). This cushion will get denser and harder in the traffic lanes. The worst cushion choice is called “prime urethane”, which cannot be made with enough density to keep foot traffic from bottoming out. A version of this is “densified” urethane, which offers a higher density but can eventually flatten or break down under long-term traffic.
Carpet cushion is essential to the comfort and long life of any carpet and almost any cushion selection is better than none at all.
Choosing an installer and measuring
Your designer can recommend a good carpet workroom or a licensed, independent installer. The installer should visit your project or view the most current set of plans of the project to determine the amount of yardage required for the job. If using plans, a subsequent, “jobsite” verification of the plan dimensions is a good idea. Overall square footage does not readily compute into yardage because carpet roll widths and lengths may generate wasted remnants during installation. The proper planning of seam placement will best determine the exact yardage.
NOTE: Many installers will charge a fee for measuring that will most likely be waived when the actual installation job is given to them.
Your designer can recommend a good carpet workroom or a licensed, independent installer. The installer should visit your project or view the most current set of plans of the project to determine the amount of yardage required for the job. If using plans, a subsequent, “jobsite” verification of the plan dimensions is a good idea. Overall square footage does not readily compute into yardage because carpet roll widths and lengths may generate wasted remnants during installation. The proper planning of seam placement will best determine the exact yardage.
NOTE: Many installers will charge a fee for measuring that will most likely be waived when the actual installation job is given to them.
Keep the installer informed
Make sure that the installer is aware of all areas to be covered. Discuss special needs such as pets, alarm system wiring or what to do about delicate furnishings or equipment. Also discuss seam locations, the method and look of transitions at doorways, access to the rooms and removal/ disposal of the existing flooring, if required. Do not assume that this information has been passed on to the installer by your designer. The best time to discuss any of these matters is at the “estimating” walk-through” with the installer.
Make sure that the installer is aware of all areas to be covered. Discuss special needs such as pets, alarm system wiring or what to do about delicate furnishings or equipment. Also discuss seam locations, the method and look of transitions at doorways, access to the rooms and removal/ disposal of the existing flooring, if required. Do not assume that this information has been passed on to the installer by your designer. The best time to discuss any of these matters is at the “estimating” walk-through” with the installer.
Determining the cost of installed carpet
The installer will report to you the total number of yards required to do the job along with the cost of installation. This yardage can be multiplied by the unit cost of carpet and cushion to determine the total cost, before sales taxes. Many carpet products are now priced by the square foot (to be more in line with other flooring categories) so make sure you either have a square yard price for the carpet and cushion or convert the Sq. Ft. price to a Sq. Yd. price by multiplying it by 9.
The installer will report to you the total number of yards required to do the job along with the cost of installation. This yardage can be multiplied by the unit cost of carpet and cushion to determine the total cost, before sales taxes. Many carpet products are now priced by the square foot (to be more in line with other flooring categories) so make sure you either have a square yard price for the carpet and cushion or convert the Sq. Ft. price to a Sq. Yd. price by multiplying it by 9.
Preparing for the carpet installation
If the carpet is being installed in a newly-built home or business, the contractor or some responsible party should arrange for the following: the floor surface should be clean, dry, smooth and level; other construction trades are to stay out of the rooms to be carpeted and have another route to their own projects; the building is thoroughly enclosed and secure (windows and doors installed); electricity is available; lighting is adequate and the air (or heat) is running to achieve a livable temperature. This responsibility cannot be passed on to the flooring installers since they have no control over these matters.
In an existing home or business to be re-carpeted: thoroughly vacuum the old carpet; remove personal and delicate items; clear shelves and tops of furniture to be moved; clear out floor spaces of closets, beneath beds, etc.; provide ventilation while the old carpet is being removed and during installation of new carpet. Delicate wiring that runs along the floor, such as computer cabling, alarm system or communication lines should be protected. If they are to be re-worked into the new flooring, that plan should be conveyed to the installers.
If the carpet is being installed in a newly-built home or business, the contractor or some responsible party should arrange for the following: the floor surface should be clean, dry, smooth and level; other construction trades are to stay out of the rooms to be carpeted and have another route to their own projects; the building is thoroughly enclosed and secure (windows and doors installed); electricity is available; lighting is adequate and the air (or heat) is running to achieve a livable temperature. This responsibility cannot be passed on to the flooring installers since they have no control over these matters.
In an existing home or business to be re-carpeted: thoroughly vacuum the old carpet; remove personal and delicate items; clear shelves and tops of furniture to be moved; clear out floor spaces of closets, beneath beds, etc.; provide ventilation while the old carpet is being removed and during installation of new carpet. Delicate wiring that runs along the floor, such as computer cabling, alarm system or communication lines should be protected. If they are to be re-worked into the new flooring, that plan should be conveyed to the installers.
See what you’re getting
You are the ultimate decision-maker regarding the like or dislike of the installed carpet but if your designer or another party has been given the ability to make this approval during the installation, you should accept their best judgment. Carpet should be reviewed prior to installation (by the chosen responsible party) to make sure it is the right pattern and color. A thing of the past: installation workrooms that have the time and space to open the carpet rolls and inspect them before taking them to the job. Thus, the installer probably has not seen the carpet until that day and couldn’t tell if it’s the right or wrong carpet that’s about to be installed.
Carpet is basically a fabric and, like any fabric, it can contain flaws that are missed during inspection at the mill. Any observed defects in the carpet should be viewed and it should be discussed whether the defect can be worked around (cut out), put in a hidden location, repaired or if it is unacceptable. If the carpet cannot be used, it should not be installed. There is a great temptation is to go ahead and install the carpet and count on its future replacement. Do not rely on the suggestion of the carpet installer. He wants to finish the job that day. If you have any doubts, consult your designer who will then communicate with the factory rep. All carpet mills will supply new carpet in place of flawed carpet but most will put up a fight if the carpet has been cut and many will completely decline to help if it has been installed. While this may be a deep inconvenience for you, allowing the mill to replace carpet before it is cut and installed will, ultimately, be the best decision.
You are the ultimate decision-maker regarding the like or dislike of the installed carpet but if your designer or another party has been given the ability to make this approval during the installation, you should accept their best judgment. Carpet should be reviewed prior to installation (by the chosen responsible party) to make sure it is the right pattern and color. A thing of the past: installation workrooms that have the time and space to open the carpet rolls and inspect them before taking them to the job. Thus, the installer probably has not seen the carpet until that day and couldn’t tell if it’s the right or wrong carpet that’s about to be installed.
Carpet is basically a fabric and, like any fabric, it can contain flaws that are missed during inspection at the mill. Any observed defects in the carpet should be viewed and it should be discussed whether the defect can be worked around (cut out), put in a hidden location, repaired or if it is unacceptable. If the carpet cannot be used, it should not be installed. There is a great temptation is to go ahead and install the carpet and count on its future replacement. Do not rely on the suggestion of the carpet installer. He wants to finish the job that day. If you have any doubts, consult your designer who will then communicate with the factory rep. All carpet mills will supply new carpet in place of flawed carpet but most will put up a fight if the carpet has been cut and many will completely decline to help if it has been installed. While this may be a deep inconvenience for you, allowing the mill to replace carpet before it is cut and installed will, ultimately, be the best decision.
After installation
Ventilate with fresh air as much as possible up to 3 days after installation. There is nothing harmful about new carpet odors but the smell of new carpet, melted seam tape and carpet cushion can be disturbing to some people. If not thoroughly done by the installer, vacuum to remove trimmed fibers.
Ventilate with fresh air as much as possible up to 3 days after installation. There is nothing harmful about new carpet odors but the smell of new carpet, melted seam tape and carpet cushion can be disturbing to some people. If not thoroughly done by the installer, vacuum to remove trimmed fibers.
Some characteristics you may observe
Seams. Some carpet styles are great at hiding seams. A few styles will always allow seams to show, especially low pile or loop pile constructions. If a seam or two stands out among many, then something is probably wrong. The exception to this being that the more noticeable seam, or seams, may be across the path of incoming light from a window or door. The process of bonding a seam with hot melt tape will add thickness to the seam area. Even a miniscule additional height will allow angular light to cast a shadow that will cause the seam to stand out. This is not a defect nor an installation flaw but a simple law of nature.
Sprouting. Occasionally, a few tufts may not have been cut evenly with the others. The effect will be that a tuft will stand higher than the rest. This should be clipped, with scissors, so that it is level with the surrounding tufts, never pulled. A few sprouts are normal. A whole bunch is not.
Shedding . Many carpet yarns are made with “staple” fibers (short fibers that are linked together by the spinning process). This is the case with all natural fiber carpets and a few cut pile synthetics. Some shorter fibers will come loose and are removed by vacuuming. Fiber loss is miniscule and is normal.
Pulled Yarn. A few carpet yarns (tufts) may be loosened during installation or snagged by moving furniture. Like a sprout, the pulled yarn should be clipped, never pulled. One clipped sprout should not leave a void. A square yard of residential carpet has about 50,000 tufts; an average-size room: about 2 million tufts.
Depressions. Heavy objects will leave dents in most carpets. Direct suction from a vacuum wand or a light steaming can help. Lower quality cushion can be the cause since it may never recover from heavy loads.
Pile Crushing or Matting. Heavy traffic or excessive soiling can cause carpet pile to stay packed down. Frequent vacuuming and regular cleaning will keep the pile standing upright. Re-arranging furniture can change traffic flow and will reduce matting. One version of matting is called “furrowing” or “wash-boarding”. This effect is usually viewed in thick, cut pile carpet. It usually it occurs in narrow lanes such as hallways or next to beds where vacuuming can be done in only one direction. The vacuum is lifting some pile and leaving some down creating rows of high and low pile. If vacuuming crossways is not possible, it may be necessary to lift up the crushed rows with direct suction or a carpet rake.
Pile Reversal. Other terms used to describe this effect are “Shading”, “pooling” and “water marking”. This usually occurs in higher quality cut pile and is considered a characteristic of the type of carpet and not a defect. It is widely thought to be the slight untwisting of the tufts caused by pivoting in a particular direction.
Buckling and Wrinkling. If carpet is not well-stretched during installation, carpet can wrinkle with normal use. Or if excessive rolling happens or extra-high humidity occurs, carpet may need to be re-stretched. A double-glue installation can prevent this from ever happening.
Seams. Some carpet styles are great at hiding seams. A few styles will always allow seams to show, especially low pile or loop pile constructions. If a seam or two stands out among many, then something is probably wrong. The exception to this being that the more noticeable seam, or seams, may be across the path of incoming light from a window or door. The process of bonding a seam with hot melt tape will add thickness to the seam area. Even a miniscule additional height will allow angular light to cast a shadow that will cause the seam to stand out. This is not a defect nor an installation flaw but a simple law of nature.
Sprouting. Occasionally, a few tufts may not have been cut evenly with the others. The effect will be that a tuft will stand higher than the rest. This should be clipped, with scissors, so that it is level with the surrounding tufts, never pulled. A few sprouts are normal. A whole bunch is not.
Shedding . Many carpet yarns are made with “staple” fibers (short fibers that are linked together by the spinning process). This is the case with all natural fiber carpets and a few cut pile synthetics. Some shorter fibers will come loose and are removed by vacuuming. Fiber loss is miniscule and is normal.
Pulled Yarn. A few carpet yarns (tufts) may be loosened during installation or snagged by moving furniture. Like a sprout, the pulled yarn should be clipped, never pulled. One clipped sprout should not leave a void. A square yard of residential carpet has about 50,000 tufts; an average-size room: about 2 million tufts.
Depressions. Heavy objects will leave dents in most carpets. Direct suction from a vacuum wand or a light steaming can help. Lower quality cushion can be the cause since it may never recover from heavy loads.
Pile Crushing or Matting. Heavy traffic or excessive soiling can cause carpet pile to stay packed down. Frequent vacuuming and regular cleaning will keep the pile standing upright. Re-arranging furniture can change traffic flow and will reduce matting. One version of matting is called “furrowing” or “wash-boarding”. This effect is usually viewed in thick, cut pile carpet. It usually it occurs in narrow lanes such as hallways or next to beds where vacuuming can be done in only one direction. The vacuum is lifting some pile and leaving some down creating rows of high and low pile. If vacuuming crossways is not possible, it may be necessary to lift up the crushed rows with direct suction or a carpet rake.
Pile Reversal. Other terms used to describe this effect are “Shading”, “pooling” and “water marking”. This usually occurs in higher quality cut pile and is considered a characteristic of the type of carpet and not a defect. It is widely thought to be the slight untwisting of the tufts caused by pivoting in a particular direction.
Buckling and Wrinkling. If carpet is not well-stretched during installation, carpet can wrinkle with normal use. Or if excessive rolling happens or extra-high humidity occurs, carpet may need to be re-stretched. A double-glue installation can prevent this from ever happening.
Good maintenance is important
The key to long carpet life is good maintenance: frequent vacuuming, spot removal and regular cleaning. Entry mats can cut down on soiling. Please view one of our specialized maintenance pages for procedures and tips.
The key to long carpet life is good maintenance: frequent vacuuming, spot removal and regular cleaning. Entry mats can cut down on soiling. Please view one of our specialized maintenance pages for procedures and tips.
